28.2. Recommended configurations

These are configurations for beginners, and therefore we tend to recommend inexpensive and mild setups rather than excessively "hot" 3-D setups.


Do not run R/C car-type "Speed 540" brushed motors (Atomic Force, Fusion 7, etc) on more than 8 cells. Most R/C car motors are not designed for more than 8 cells, and running them with more cells will kill the motor after only a few flights.

28.2.1. Beginner configurations Corona - brushed configuration

  • Kyosho Atomic Force brushed motor w/stock pinion

  • Castle Creations Pegasus 35H or 35P main ESC (older Pegasus 35 has too high LVC)

  • 2 Hitec HS-85MGs for cyclic

  • 1 Hitec HS-81 for tail

  • Futaba GY240 HH gyro

  • 4 channel receiver

  • 7 or 8 cell CP2400 or RC2400 battery pack Corona - brushless configuration

  • Mega Motors 16/15/3 brushless motor w/stock pinion

  • Castle Creations Phoenix 45 main ESC

  • 2 Hitec HS-85MGs for cyclic

  • 1 Hitec HS-81 for tail

  • Futaba GY240 HH gyro

  • 4 channel receiver

  • 7 or 8 cell CP2400 or RC2400 battery pack FP Piccolo - brushed + Piccoboard

  • Stock Speed 295/310 motor

  • Piccoboard or Piccoboard Plus

  • 2 HS-55s for cyclic

  • GWS or Berg 4-channel receiver

  • 7 cell NiCad or 8 cell NiMH battery pack FP Piccolo - brushed - separates

  • Stock Speed 295/310 motor

  • 1 Castle Creations Pixie-7P main ESC

  • High frequency tail ESC

  • 2 HS-55s for cyclic

  • Futaba GY240 or CSM LW200 HH gyro

  • GWS or Berg 4-channel receiver

  • 7 cell NiCad or 8 cell NiMH battery pack FP Piccolo - brushless - separates

  • Hacker B20-36S brushless motor w/8 tooth pinion

  • Castle Creations Phoenix 10 main ESC

  • High frequency tail ESC

  • 2 HS-55s for cyclic

  • Futaba GY240 or CSM LW200 HH gyro

  • GWS or Berg 4-channel receiver

  • 7 cell NiCad or 8 cell NiMH battery pack GWS Dragonfly - brushed - separates

  • Stock motor

  • GWS ICS-100E main motor ESC

  • High frequency tail ESC

  • 2 HS-55s for cyclic

  • Futaba GY240 HH gyro

  • GWS 4-channel receiver

  • 8 cell NiMH battery pack

28.2.2. Intermediate configurations CP Piccolo or Pro - brushless - separates

  • Hacker B20-31S brushless motor w/8 tooth pinion (for power) or

  • Hacker B20-36S brushless motor w/10 tooth pinion (for duration)

  • Castle Creations Phoenix 10 main ESC

  • Pixie-7P or ICS-50E tail ESC

  • 2 HS-50s (or HS-55s) for cyclic

  • Futaba GY401 or CSM LW200 HH gyro

  • GWS 6-channel receiver

  • 8 cell NiCad or NiMH battery pack T-Rex 450XL

  • Mega Motors ACn 16/15/3 w/13 tooth pinion

  • Castle Creations Phoenix 35 main ESC

  • 3 HS-56s or HS-65s for cyclic

  • 1 Futaba HS9650 for tail

  • Futaba GY-240 or GY-401 gyro

  • Hitec Electron 6 receiver

  • 3S1P 2100 maH battery pack Zoom 400

  • Hacker B20-18L with 8T pinion

  • Castle Creations Phoenix 35 main ESC

  • 3 HS-55s or HS-56s for cyclic

  • 1 HS-55 for tail

  • Futaba GY-240 or GY-401 gyro

  • Hitec Electron 6 receiver

  • 3S1P 1320 maH battery pack Logo 10 - brushless

  • Kontronik FUN 600-18 w/15 tooth pinion

  • Schulze Future 18.46K + UBEC or SBEC

  • 3 JR DS3421 or DS368 or DS3728 for cyclic

  • HS-5245MG for tail

  • Futaba GY240 or GY401 HH gyro

  • 6 channel receiver

  • 12 cell NiCad battery pack ECO 8 - brushed

  • Kyosho Magnetic Mayhem Reverse brushed motor

  • Castle Creations Pegasus 35

  • 3 HS-85MGs for cyclic

  • HS-81 for tail

  • Futaba GY240 or GY401 HH gyro

  • 6 channel receiver

  • 8 cell NiCad battery pack (The MMR can run with 10 cells also) ECO 8 - brushless

  • Hacker B50-18S or Mega Motor 22/20/3H motor

  • Schulze Future 12.46e (8 cells)

  • Schulze Future 18.46K + UBEC or SBEC (10 cells)

  • 3 HS-85MGs for cyclic

  • HS-81 for tail

  • Futaba GY240 or GY401 HH gyro

  • 6 channel receiver

  • 10 cell NiCad battery pack (will fly on 8 cells brushless, but much better with 10 cells)

28.2.3. Construction tips for specific helicopters Specific tips for LMH Corona only

  • Many Corona kits seem to have missing parts. If you are missing a part and you bought the kit directly from Lite Machines, call them and explain your situation. If you bought from a retailer and not Lite Machines, then talk to your retailer about the missing parts. You may want to finish most of the model before reporting missing parts so you don't need to call multiple times.

  • The general consensus on the Ezone regarding the Fusion-7 motor is it's not very good. People have reported the motor dying after as few as 5-10 flights. The Kyosho Atomic Force seems to be the best alternative brushed motor. It is available from Tower Hobbies.

  • Make sure there is enough room between the two cyclic servos for the servo arms to rotate freely without hitting the other servo. If the servo arm rubs against the other servo, your front/back cyclic control will be sluggish and hovering will be very difficult.

  • The manual recommends using one 4 dot blade grip and one 6 dot blade grip, but the heli is more stable and easier to hover if you use two 4 dot blade grips because the headspeed is higher. Later on if you want more lift you can switch one of the blade grips to a 6 dot blade grip.

  • If you are at a high elevation, you may not get enough lift using two 4 dot blade grips, however. In this case, you should use the manual-recommended grips.

  • The labels on the main rotor blades seem to be attached using the world's stickiest adhesive. The residue from the adhesive can be easily removed using WD-40 or Goo Gone.



  • The Fusion 35 controller on the LMH Corona is a relabeled Castle Creations Pegasus 35.

  • The Fusion 35/Pegasus 35 seems to have trouble arming on many transmitters. If you turn on the transmitter, then turn on the Corona and do not hear two beeps, then you are having this problem. To fix this problem, you need to set a lower endpoint for the throttle channel on your transmitter. For a Futaba 9C, go to Menu->End Point->THR and set it to 125/125.

  • Many people make "tail boom protector" for the Corona to protect the tail boom from boom strikes. This is usually foam wrapped around the tail boom or a strip of 1/4 thick balsa or 3/8 dowel tie wrapped to the tail to prevent the rotor blades from denting/bending the tail boom. Other people use a "rotor deflector" which is a piece of wood or angle aluminum mounted on the tail to deflect the rotor blade.

  • The feathering plate should be parallel to the swashplate. If these are not parallel, then you may need to loosen the main shaft and slide the main shaft down a little bit until the two are properly parallel.

  • The newer Corona tail gearboxes appear to be much more fragile than the older ones. One option is to use an aftermarket tail gearbox such as the Ballistic Technology or Chopper-1 gearbox. Specific tips for all Piccolo (Fun/ECO/CP upgrade/Pro)

  • The stock plastic motor pinion may slip on the motor shaft. We recommend using CA to glue the motor pinion onto the motor shaft to prevent this from occuring.

  • Drill a hole through the landing skid (67361) so the struts (67378) will go all the way through the skid. This will make the landing skid much stronger. If you don't do this, then the nipple on the landing skid will probably break off in a hard landing.

  • When building the landing skids (67361), use thick CA instead of the thin CA included in the kit. The thin CA runs all over the place and is difficult to get in the right place. Also, CA the rear skid struts into the frame FIRST. Then CA the front skids into the frame and make sure they almost align with the rear skid struts. If you don't do this the landing skids will probably be crooked.

  • Do not use CA to glue in the tail boom. This usually works too well. When you crash, it will be almost impossible to remove all the tail boom bits and you will have to drill out the remaining pieces. It is much better to put a few layers of CA on the ends of the tail boom and let this dry thoroughly, then friction-fit the tailboom into the body and the tail rotor assembly.

  • The landing skids may pop off the frame in even mild landings. You can reinforce the landing gear by CAing a length of CF rod across the front and rear landing gear skids about a half-inch (1.25cm) below the chassis (67360). This absorbs most of the landing stress that would normally pop the landing skid struts off the frame.

  • The Piccolo tends to lose the bearings on the hub (67566) on hard crashes. You may want to purchase an aftermarket aluminum hub or carefully thick CA the bearings to the stock hub to avoid losing the bearings. Beware when purchasing an aluminum hub; some of them appear to be made from soft aluminum and will bend easily. I do not recommend J's aluminum hubs for this reason. The Precision Model Products hubs are of much better quality. Specific tips for fixed pitch Piccolo (ECO/Fun) only

  • The stock Piccolo FP has excessive play in the control mechanism. Specifically, the swashplate wobbles around too much. There are two mods which are required to fix this: the ball-in-swash mod and the Chris Rigoleth antirotation strap. These will make your initial hover attempts somewhat easier.

  • The older FP Piccolo kits had a anti-rotation link (67366) with only a single hinge rather than the newer double hinges. If you receive a one of these single hinge anti-rotation links, they do not work well, and I recommend you replace it with a newer double-hinge one. Specific tips for collective pitch Piccolo (CP upgrade/Pro) only

  • The pitch case (68211) will usually be too tight on the main rotor shaft (68203). This will cause drag on the motor. To fix this, put a 3mm drill bit into Dremel, then put the pitch case onto the drill bit, then run the Dremel at low speed for about five minutes. Hold the pitch case very gently to prevent it from spinning around. After this, lubricate the inside of the pitch case with some graphite to further reduce friction.

  • The M2x6 screw which holds in the pitch bellcranks (68212) will usually rub against the flybar control levers (68209). To fix this problem, put the M2x6 screws into a drill and hold the head of the screw against a metal file to shave down the screw head. This will prevent the screw head from rubbing against the flybar control lever.

  • Some CP upgrade kits include an older style flybar (68208) which is not very good. The older style flybar is completely smooth and does not have the grooves stamped into the flybar to prevent the control arms (68209) and flybar paddle (67371) from slipping. If you have one of these flybars, you should replace it, because it will be almost impossible to prevent the control arms from slipping on the older flybar even if you roughen the flybar.

  • The Piccolo CP/Pro head has some cyclic interaction. For example, when you apply forward cyclic, it tends to go forward and left, and back tends to go back and right. Therefore, you will need to use aileron/elevator and elevator/aileron mixing to compensate for this problem. Specific tips for the MS Composit Hornet II

This is a very difficult kit to build. There are many tiny nearly invisible parts, so please be careful not to lose any parts! There are some parts which are too tight on the Hornet II. This is an explanation of the "enlarging the hole" trick used in many of the following Hornet II steps:

  • Put a 2mm drill bit on a drill

  • Slide the part onto the drill bit

  • Hold the part with your fingers

  • Turn on the drill at low speed

  • Using your fingers, Move the part in a circular motion so the drill bit will touch the sides of the hole to widen it slightly.

There are a few steps which involve CAing together two smooth plastic parts or a plastic part and a carbon fiber part. The CA will not adhere well to smooth parts, so you should roughen the areas to be glued with 400 grit sandpaper for better adhesion.

Making CA joints

Step 1 - Main Body Assembly:

The joint between the frame base (E402) and the frame support (E403) will be much stronger if you use 400 grit sandpaper to roughen the area underneath the frame support so the CA will stick better.

Step 2 - Tail Rotor:

Do not force the bearings onto the tail drive shaft (E417). If you try to force the bearings onto the shaft, the shaft may split. It is much better to use some 400 grit sandpaper to sand down the shaft slightly so the bearings will slide on.

Step 2 - Tail Rotor:

The pinion (E118) and the gear (E028) which are supposed to fit on the ends of the tail drive shaft (E417) have holes which are too small and the gears will get stuck halfway onto the shaft. Please use the "enlarging hole" trick so the pinion can be slid onto the shaft without becoming stuck. If you widen the hole too much, then the gear/pinion may slip. You can fix this by smearing some thin CA into the crack between the pinion and shaft AFTER you have put the gear/pinion on the shaft.

Step 2 - Tail Rotor:

The bell crank (E026) will not pivot smoothly on the tail gearbox (E425). There are multiple problems which must be fixed for this bell crank to pivot smoothly:

  • The bell crank is too tight on the tail gearbox. You will need to do three things to fix this problem:

    1. Polish the pivot pin with some extra-fine sandpaper (800 grit or better)

    2. Use the "enlarging hole" trick on the bellcrank pivot hole to enlarge it slightly.

    3. Use the "enlarging hole" trick on the bellcrank hole for the slider cage CP (E091). Be very careful enlarging this hole because it doesn't need to be enlarged much.

  • There are bits of flashing left on the tail gearbox (E425) in two places which rub against the bellcrank. These look like small circles. Use some masking tape to protect the bearings from the plastic dust, then use a small needle file to remove the flashing so the bellcrank (E026) pivots smoothly.

  • Use powdered graphite to lubricate the bellcrank pivot hole before using CA on the plastic retainer (E027).

Step 2 - Tail Rotor:

The holes in the tail hub (E431) are not tapped very well. Screw in a stainless steel M2 screw into both holes of the hub to clean up the threads before inserting the M2x8 bolts (E058).

Step 3 - Rotor Head Assembly:

At this point you will have six bearings: four 2x6x2.5 and two 2x6x2. Be sure to use the 2x6x2.5 for the main blade grips! The bearings look very similar!

Step 4 - Rotor Head Assembly:

Squirt some powdered graphite through the flybar hole in the stabilizer lever (E072) to reduce friction and allow the flybar to rotate smoothly.

Step 4 - Rotor Head Assembly:

Be sure to tighten the grub screw(E083) just enough so you can see a tiny gap between the stabilizer lever (E072) and the stabilizer bed (E073) on both sides. This will ensure the stabilizer lever pivots freely without rubbing against the stabilizer bed.

Step 5 - Rotor Head - Completion:

The ball link diagram labeled "2x" is incorrect. The diagram shows two short ball links connected by a bolt. The ball link labeled E021 should be a LONG ball link, not a short ball link.

Step 6 - Helicopter Construction:

There are two places in this step (4 and 14) where it calls the E419 the "Vertical Fin Holder". This is incorrect. It should read "Horizontal Fin Holder". There is no vertical fin holder.

Step 6 - Helicopter Construction:

If you glue the vertical fin to the tail boom, it will be difficult to remove when replacing the tail boom. I recommend drilling four 2mm holes in the vertical tail fin and using two nylon tiewraps to secure the tail fin to the tail boom without using CA.

Step 7 - RC Installation:

I recommend putting a piece of 1/8" or 3mm plywood underneath the front servo mount to give extra clearance to the servo arm. Additionally you should trim the same amount off the ball link to compensate for the raised servo. Specific tips for Ikarus ECO 8/16 only

If the ECO 8/16 is built strictly by the manual, you will create a helicopter which has extremely tight linkages and will have severe vibration problems and will be difficult to hover. Please follow these tips so your ECO 8/16 will fly well.

  • It is possible make the ECO more durable and crash-resistant by "doubling up" the sideframes. To do this, buy another set of sideframes, and epoxy each set together - don't forget to rough up the mating surfaces of the sideframes with 200 grit sandpaper first for better epoxy adhesion. You will need to replace the M2x8 with M2x10 screws, and also replace the M2x30 screws with two extra-long M2 bolts or two M2 threaded rods because the M2x30s will be too short to reach through the tail boom mounts. The double frames will add about 41 grams to your AUW and reduce your flight times by about 30 seconds, but the frame will be much stiffer for better control and also survive most crashes.

  • The stock ECO 8 landing gear is a bit narrow and makes landing difficult for beginners. You may want to replace it with the ECO 16 landing gear (67916 + 67917) or the ECO 8/16 extra wide landing gear (67822).

    The ECO 16 landing gear is about 1 inch longer and two inches wider than the stock ECO 8 landing gear. This landing gear will need slight modifications to work on the ECO 8 because it is designed to hold two battery packs.

    The ECO 8/16 training gear is about 1 inch longer and 3.25 inches wider than the stock ECO 8 landing gear. This can hold either one or two battery packs and requires no modification.

    Both the ECO 16 landing gear and the ECO 8/16 training gear use the ECO 16 skids (67917) which are wider in diameter.

  • The control balls on the plastic swashplate (67701) have been known to break off on extremely hard crashes. You may want to upgrade to the aluminum swashplate (67707) immediately. Also, the aluminum swashplate can be configured to support 120 CCPM which offers better control than 90 CCPM.

  • The stock main rotor shaft (67535), the stock feathering shaft (67509), and the stock tail rotor shaft (67550) are very soft and bend easily in minor crashes.

    If this happens, I highly recommend replacing them with the hardened versions: 67940, 67942, and 67941 respectively.

  • I don't recommend using the mechanical mixer, because electronic mixing works much better than the mechanical mixer. If you do choose to use the mechanical mixer anyway, you will need fairly strong servos because the mechanical mixer needs a lot of force to move it around. Probably HS-81s are not adequate for mechanical mixing - you need at least HS-85BBs.

  • The stock wooden main rotor blades are fairly durable and are very good for beginners because they will survive minor crashes. I would recommend using the stock wooden main rotor blades for as long as possible - definitely while learning hovering in all orientations.

  • Pg 6: The tail drive belt pulley (67702) may wobble because the hole is not drilled exactly in the center of the pulley. This usually does not cause problems, but in some cases the hole is very out of center, and the tail belt may slap against the tail boom as it spins up or while it's flying. In this case, it is advisable to replace the tail belt pulley with a new one that is hopefully better, or replace both pulleys with the Voyager E rear belt pulleys (060860), or replace both with aftermarket aluminum pulleys ( PMP ATPS).

  • Pg 6 and 13: It is best to prethread the setscrews (67574) into the plastic pulleys (67702) before mounting the pulley onto the shaft. This will reduce the chance of stripping the setscrew hole. You should use a small nutdriver (Wiha #263 or similar) to tighten the setscrews.

    If you accidentally strip the hole, you can repair the hole by using the CA trick mentioned in the general construction tips section.

  • Pg 8: If the aluminum skids (67563) are difficult to fit into the undercarriage cross member (67562) try using a hairdryer to heat the cross member until it softens slightly, then slide in the aluminum skids.

  • Pg 9: When building the pitch compensator, the manual does not mention the arm (67591) has a TAPERED hole for the pin. If you try to force the pin through the narrow hole instead of the wide one, this may cause damage to the arm.

  • Pg 9: The two collective pitch compensator arms (67591) will rub against each other on a stock ECO, which is bad. You should put an M2 washer between each arm (67591) and the hub (67590) to increase the spacing between the arms.

  • Pg 10: The flybar seesaw (67610) usually does not seesaw smoothly on the rotor center unit (67639). This flybar seesaw needs to move very smoothly on its pivots otherwise this will cause vibrations when hovering.

    To fix this problem, take some extra-fine steel wool (#000) and spread it with your fingers to make a very thin mesh. This mesh should be about 1 inch by 1 inch and be mostly air with about 50 or 60 strands of steel wool running through it.

    Remove the flybar seesaw, then put the steel wool mesh on top of the pivot, then mash the seesaw on top of it so the steel wool is trapped between the pivot and the seesaw. The seesaw should snap on with moderate pressure; if you need too much pressure then your steel wool mesh is too thick.

    Now wiggle the seesaw up and down about 10 times, then remove the steel wool and check if the seesaw pivots smoothly. If it still does not pivot smoothly, then repeat this process. Do not repeat more than twice because this will wear out the pivot. For the final finish, apply some powdered graphite onto the pivot. After this, the seesaw should move very smoothly.

  • Pg 10: The flybar (67609) usually does not rotate smoothly in the flybar seesaw (67610). You MUST make the flybar seesaw rotate smoothly in the flybar seesaw otherwise the heli will be very difficult to hover. You will need to push the flybar through the flybar seesaw repeatedly (like playing a violin) for about 5 minutes until the rod slides smoothly through the flybar seesaw. This will make the heli much more stable and easier to hover.

  • Pg 11/update: (Advanced) You can give make a free tail pitch slider upgrade by installing a brass ball on the outer slide ring (67643). You must do this modification BEFORE the needle bearing (67644) is installed inside the outer slide ring. Cut off the plastic ball from the outer slide ring, then drill a 1.5 mm hole where it was. Take an M2x8 screw and a brass ball, and screw it into the 1.5 mm hole. Look inside the outer slide ring and check how much of the screw protrudes inside. Remove the screw and trim it to size, then CA the screw and brass ball into the outer slide ring.

  • Pg 12: The diagram does not show this, but you will need to bend the top of the 93mm ball link very slightly (maybe 5-10 degrees) to ensure it does not rub against the flybar when the swashplate is at the bottom of its travel. Check to make sure the ball link does not rub against the flybar seesaw (67610) when the swashplate is moved up and down. If the ball link rubs against the flybar seesaw, then reduce the angle of the bend. This bend slightly increases the usable negative pitch range.

  • Pg 13: The tail rotor shaft (67550) is asymmetrical and one notch is closer to one end than the other. The shaft end with the notch FARTHER from the end should slide into the pulley (67702), not the blade grip hub (67549).

  • Pg 13: The tail blade grips (67542) should controlled by the leading edge of the blade, and not the trailing edge. If the tail blade pitch is controlled by the trailing edge, the tail may wag. Double-check and make sure the Ikarus logo on the tail blades is visible from the right side of the heli, and the control ball for the tail blade grips is on the leading edge of the blade.

  • Pg 13: There is a serious problem on this page. In some versions of the English manual, the instructions do not mention using threadlock on the screw holding the tail blade grip (67603) to the tail hub (67549). The German version of the manual correctly tells you to use threadlock on this screw. If you fail to do this your tail rotor grip may fall apart in flight causing the heli to pirouette out of control. Do not skip the threadlock on this screw! Also, if you disassemble and reassemble the tail rotor later, don't forget to reapply fresh threadlock on this screw!!

  • Also, be sure the screw tail blade grip is left slightly loose so it can rotate freely on the ball bearing and screw. If the tail blade grip is screwed too tightly to the tail rotor hub, then the tail may "wag" because the mechanics may bind and gyro will have trouble controlling the tail blade pitch.

    You should check the play in the tail blade after installing the tail blades. There should be approximately 12 mm (half inch) of play in the tail blades. If you have significantly less or more play, then you should remove the tail blade and readjust this screw.

  • Pg 13: The M2x6 screw (67561) should not be screwed too tightly into the short ballend (67564) on the tail. If the screws are too tight,then the tail pitch lever will not move smoothly around the middle of its range because the ballends will not be free to flex outwards. To adjust this screw properly, screw it in completely, then reverse it approximately one-eighth turn. This should be about right but you should check the pitch lever movement to verify it moves smoothly.

  • Pg 13: The pitch lever (67541) must move VERY freely on the tail housing (67548). On an unmodified ECO this is very sticky, which will make the tail "wag" with a heading hold gyro!

    To fix the stickiness problem, rub the post where the pitch lever mounts with some extra fine steel wool to remove the grooves left from the molding process. Next, apply some powdered graphite to the post and to the inside of the pitch lever and mount the pitch lever. Wiggle the pitch lever a few dozen times to spread the graphite. The pitch lever should now move very smoothly.

  • Pp 16-21: Don't use servo grommets to mount the servos to the frame. Instead, cut a 4mm length of very small fuel tubing and slide this onto the M2 screw. When this tubing is compressed, it will fatten out and fill the gap between the servo and screw.

  • Pp 16-21: If you are using the aluminum swashplate with 120 CCPM, mount one servo in front and two in the back at the 12 o'clock, 4 o'clock, and 8 o'clock positions. This is easier to mount than two servos in front and one in back. You will need to fiddle with the transmitter swashplate setting to swap the front and back with this servo configuration (SWASH AFR on the Futaba 9C).

    Note: This servo arrangement will not work with a frame brace (because the front servo will hit the frame brace) nor will it work with a stock Hacker B50 heatsink (because the heatsink will hit the frame brace). The Hacker B50 heatsink will require about a 1.25" section of it removed so it doesn't interfere with the front servo.

  • Pg 22: The suggested component placement will work if your gyro requires mounting on a vertical surface but does not work well if using a gyro which requires mounting on a horizontal surface such as a Futaba GY240 or GY401. If using these gyros, then mount the gyro on top of the tail boom support behind the shaft (instead of the receiver) and mount the receiver upside down under the tail boom support (where the frame is angled). This component placement keeps the ESC far away from the receiver and gyro and prevents radio glitching problems. Specific tips for Logo 10 only

  • See www.logoheli.com for excellent construction tips

  • Some Logo 10 kits are missing parts and/or including the wrong sized ball links. If your kit has this problem, you should contact the retailer who sold you the kit and explain your problem.

  • Many Logo 10 owners have reported the tail belt builds up static electricity in the tail boom. This can cause glitching and/or ESC failure. Extreme care must be taken with component placement.

  • The Logo 10 stock plastic swashplate has been known to separate in flight. This leads to loss of control and probably a crash. You may want to immediately upgrade to the aluminum swashplate to avoid this situation.

  • The Logo 10 tail wire guides are not very good. They are not adjustable and the pushrod tends to bind in them. I recommend replacing these guides with an adjustable set, such as the K&S 529 "Special Control Rod Guide Set".